Introduction

Introduction

The aim of this research report was to investigate how to use organic contemporary jewellery as metaphoric interpretations of my personal experiences.  The research was undertaken by means of action research, examining various papers, books and articles written by accomplished jewellery artists in the field of contemporary jewellery. These papers, books and articles have provided the terminology and definitions necessary to understand the chosen research topic, making up chapter one. Throughout this chapter, I have spoken about the functions of jewellery, positions of jewellery, organic jewellery, movement jewellery and metaphor in jewellery.

Chapter two consists of a literature review of the writings and images of jewellery pieces by other jewellers who I have used as references. Their jewellery pieces share similar characteristics to my jewellery pieces. I have spoken about how these jewellers use nature as inspiration for the pieces that they create as well as their use of metaphor.

Chapter three speaks about the jewellery pieces and prototypes that I have created for this research report. This chapter includes the techniques, methods, poetry and meanings behind my jewellery pieces. This chapter uses the terminology and definitions learned in the first two chapters to explain the body of work that I have created.

van der Linden, A., (2019) Gooseberry Brooch Sketch

Chapter 1 Introduction

Chapter 1

In this first chapter, the focus is placed on the explanations and definitions of the words of the title ‘Using Nature as a Metaphor to Create Contemporary Jewellery’. We will be exploring the definition of ‘contemporary jewellery’ as well as the functions of jewellery, organic jewellery, movement jewellery and the use of nature as a metaphor after examining various papers written by well-known academics in the field of contemporary and art jewellery including: Bruce Metcalf, Liesbeth den Besten, Jivan Astfalck, Kenneth Quickenden and Celia Rabinovitch.

Chapter 3 - Phases of a Flower Reflection

Reflection:

van der Linden, A., (2019) Phases of a Flower,
Installation in Copper and Sterling Silver

After reading the Phases of a Flower poem, I see that there is a clear element of personification present where the flower is personified as a human female. I can see this through the use of the words “she”, “her” and “dancing”. I can also see that there is a progression present where the flower starts off as “young” and “weak” describing a bud and further down in the poem, words such as “tall” and “strength” are used to describe the mature flower.

I feel that the poem may describe a personal metaphor, where I see myself or an aspect of myself as the flower where the progression of the flower is a metaphor of the progression of an aspect of my life. I think that this installation may be a metaphor of my 5 year study period at the Durban University of Technology and the thoughts and emotions I experienced regarding this period of my life. Now that I am nearing the end of my B-tech, I realize that I have grown as a person and as an artist and that I have developed many new skills and knowledge allowing me to be confident enough to start a business on my own. I have also realized that there are many new opportunities awaiting me and that it is a start of a new phase in my life.

Chapter 3 - Phases of a Flower Poem

Phases of a Flower Poem:

van der Linden, A., (2019). Phases of a Flower Installation,
Copper and Sterling Silver

Phases of a Flower

Her eyes shut closed tight
Delicate, young and naïve
she conceals her face

Tiny leaves still weak,
stiff and stocky, out of place,
she has much to learn

She starts to open,
blooming and growing stronger
a growing flower

embracing changes
waiting in anticipation
for her to unfold

She has shown her face
blooming in strength and courage
growing confidence

Petals are dancing
in choreographed movement
nearing her summer

Standing in full bloom
she is tall and confident
her head is up high

Courageous and bold
she’s a tactile temptation,
her beauty to hold

She’s falling apart
scattering petals around
swept up by the wind

And sowing her seeds
she deposits her knowledge
of new beginnings

Phases of a Flower

Phases of a Flower

Figure 21 - van der Linden, A., (2019) Phases of a Flower, sculptural installation design sketch

 Figure 21 shows the design sketch of Phases of a Flower

‘Phases of a Flower’ are a set of five individual pieces each with their own symbolic meaning. Together, these individual pieces from one installation piece that becomes the metaphor of my study period at DUT. The installation consists of a set of five sculptural pieces in oxidized copper and sterling silver that realistically resemble flowers in different phases of a life cycle from a bud to a wilting flower. I have made these pieces to mimic nature in form and movement by creating the petals to move in the last three flowers. Movement has allowed this installation to become very tactile and sensory-stimulating to the senses of sight and sound. View the different flowers, Bud, Transitioning, Fresh, Mature and Wilting)

I was inspired by the ‘Magrietjie’ flower. The ‘Magrietjie’ is the Afrikaans name for the Marguerite Daisy, a common daisy-like flowering plant that comes in many different colours. It is also a plant that has a personal significance to me as it made up a part of my childhood. My mum had a 'Magrietjie' bush growing in the garden. Growing up, I remember playing with these flowers and the feeling of rubbing the petals across my fingers.

I have included the element of movement in the last three pieces so that there is a strong tactile element present when the flowers are picked up and touched by a viewer. The gentle feeling of the metal flower between my fingers allows me to think back to when I was a young girl and I used to pick flowers from the garden and play with their petals, bringing about a nostalgic feeling. I hope that the viewers of my piece will have a similar nostalgic experience when they engage with my pieces.

Chapter 3 - Wilting

Wilting:

Figure 26 - van der Linden, A., (2019)
Wilting Flower in copper and
sterling silver

This piece makes up the last flower in my Installation, Phases of a flower. I have created the metal flower in this phase to resemble a flower that is wilting. Its petals are not attached and with one touch they drop to the ground. This will bring about an element of surprise and it will add to the sensual experience of the viewer. See figure 26 above.

Chapter 3 - Mature

Mature:

Figure 25 - van der Linden, A., (2019)
Mature in copper and
sterling silver

This is the fourth piece that makes up my installation, Phases of a Flower. This piece resembles a mature flower that has reached its peak growth point. The mature flower’s petals have fully extended to their maximum potential to fully reveal the inside face. See figure 25 above.