Flower Movement

Movement of flowers

I have included the element of movement in the last three pieces so that there is a strong tactile element present when the flowers are picked up and touched by a viewer. The gentle feeling of the metal flower between my fingers allows me to think back to when I was a young girl and I used to pick flowers from the garden and play with their petals, bringing about a nostalgic feeling. I hope that the viewers of my piece will have a similar nostalgic experience when they engage with my pieces.

van der Linden, A (2019) Phases of a flower, Copper and sterling silver flower sculptures.

Movement Jewellery

Movement in Nature

It is very difficult to imagine the natural world without movement. Leaves and flower petals blowing in the wind, butterfly wings flapping and the rising and setting of the sun are all examples of actual movement found in nature. Other forms of movement are more subtle such as the changing of the seasons, the growth of plants and animals and their death and decay. Movement can be seen in nature in many instances, not just in its physical form but also in its more metaphorical form when observing natural processes. “The representation of vitalism is an identification with nature and biological forces”. (Quickenden 2000). Movement incorporated into a jewellery piece can aid the piece in appearing 'lifelike' or alive (Walker n. d.) and the element of movement can be brought about in many ways. (Quickenden 2000).

Ryan, J., Pendant, 18ct gold and vitreous enamel [Online]

Flowers Mechanisms

I have started constructing the flower mechanisms to create the three kinetic flowers with fully movable parts. To create the moving hinge systems, the flower bases (the part where the petals are slotted into) need to be cut out large enough to have 16 x 2mm long slots and small enough to fit into a bud to hold it in place. On these bases, tiny slots need to be cut so that the petal can be slided into the opening. each petal has a 2mm x 10mm long tongue that is rolled up once it has been slotted into place, this prevents the petal from slipping out, but also allows the petal to move about in a wide range of movement depending on how tight the tongue has been rolled up. To decorate the flower base, I have punched tiny beads into a second plate, which I have soldered onto the base to resemble the center part of the flower carpels. After tumbling the bases, I rose gold plated them to create a contrast to the whiteness of the sterling silver petals.

Construction of the slots for the petals

Construction of the Carpels to be placed on top of the base

'Magrietjies' Petals in the Making

In the process of the making of my next series of pieces, Thoughts in Flowers, in addition to the buds, I will also be making flowers that resemble daisies in the open and wilting stages of the flowers.

Daisy Bud Opening

Fully Open Daisy

In these stages, when looking at an actual flower, the petals are not static, they have some kinetic properties where they are able to dance in the wind or move about when touched. A person feels tempted to rub the petals across one's fingers because of the soft feeling that the petals create, a tactile temptation. I want to create this same tactile desire in the open flower pieces of Thoughts in Flowers. I WANT my audience to pick up and play with my pieces in the same way that I played with the flowers in my hands as a little girl. 

To create this piece, I have pierced out a few loose petals from a 0.3mm sheet of sterling silver, I then shaped each petal by punching a groove down the center using a flat punch. these petals will then be connected to a disc with tiny grooves as in my Movement Jewellery post to create tiny hinge like systems. this will allow the petals to move about when manipulated. 

Thoughts in Flowers

For the past few months I have been burning to create more floral pieces that is similar to a prototype piece that I made last year that involves petals that move when manipulated. I thought that It would make an excellent concept for the PlatAfrica 2019 competition and I drew up an initial design sketch for this idea that I had for a daisy flower Brooch, that have moving petals. I wanted to create a flower jewellery piece that shows the growth and transition from bud, to blossom and then the wilting of the petals to symbolize the way that I experience an artistic Idea.

I have come up with a new concept idea that grew from the above design. It involves a series of five pieces that represent daisy flowers in different phases of growth.

The design sketch of my next series of pieces, Thoughts in Flowers. this piece will be made into metal. 

Creating a new title.

Change of plans

After speaking to my lecturer about my title, 'Contemporary Jewellery Inspired by Nature' he noted that it lacked a certain depth. He also mentioned that he saw a pattern in my work, that I was not actually making a point of exploring nature but rather using it as a tool to express an idea of change. This revelation that I never noticed. I can use this idea to tie in my use of nature as well as the movement that I have been exploring.

I have come up with a new title sentence that I have to dissect and extract the correct words so that I can hit the nail on the head  with my heading. To help me establish a title, I have asked myself a question, "what am I actually doing"? and i created a mind map to help me answer this

here is the answer:

I am using nature as a metaphor/tool to create contemporary jewellery that expresses/captures a form of change/movement

to better express change and movement I looked at these words' definitions.

Change- Process of becoming different.
Movement- act of moving/change/development.

I also looked at these words and their meanings:

Flux- continuous change
Growth- to develop physically
Metamorphosis- to completely change
Cycle- Recurring series of events
Rhythm-  repeated pattern/recurring series of events (referring to movement and music)
Morphogenesis- the origin and development of an object's form or shape.

After thinking about these words, I managed to create a more concrete title:

Using Nature as a Metaphor to Create Contemporary Jewellery that Capture's Rythm

or

Contemporary Jewellery Inspired by the Rhythms of Nature

 I like the word 'Rhythm' as it ties in the movement and sounds created by my jewellery.

Movement

VGCJ

Many jewellers incorporate movement into their jewellery as the element of movement can express a certain metaphor or ideal that the jewellery artist wants to get across to their audience. It can also be used to make jewellery objects more visually interesting when viewed. Looking at movement or kinetic jewellery, movement or the appearance of movement can be created in many different ways. Some artists create instrument like or mechanical jewellery that move with the aid of a power source and motor. Others create jewellery objects that are made up of parts that are connected with small hinge systems that allow a more subtle form of movement to occur when the wearer moves his or her body. A more virtual form of movement can be created on a completely static object through the use of materials that reflect light or with the use of lines that create the illusion of movement.

The Nature of Jewellery and Jewellery of Nature

Below is a snippet of Bruce Metcalf's aricle 'The Nature of Jewellery' that appeals to my work.

"The sensuousness of jewelry brings up another constant that seems to permeate the history of the field. I believe jewelry is generally visual and ornamental, rather than conceptual. Let me show you two works done within five years of each other. The first is a piece of body- jewelry by Arline Fisch from 1969. It is very much a decoration placed on the body, the detail and structure of which was intended to create a rich and rewarding visual experience. As the model moved, the piece moved as well, making a second contour that echoed the human form. It probably made a subtle noise, too. It is first and foremost an object, and the experience of it is primarily sensuous."

In the above snippet, Bruce Metcalf states his opinion that jewellery is "generally visual and ornamental, rather than Conceptual" my opinion of this concurs with the above statement. Jewellery is primarily visually stimulating but what makes a jewellery piece exceptional is if it teases any of the four other senses. this can be done through non mechanical movement. Movement will stimulate the visual sense intensly and will also bring about a tactile element, creating the urge to touch and feel the piece. I have noticed the power that movement can bring to a piece, the floral movement prototypes that I have created in the past had some sort of magic to them that encouraged people to engage with them using three of the five senses

I feel that experiencing a sensual stimulating piece is much more effective and rewarding than experiencing something that is conceptual. The five senses were created to help humans observe their environment more effectively. When a sense is provoked, immidiately a trigger in the body occurs, almost like a subconcious reaction or instinct and this experience can either be positive or negative. Think about when you accidentaly touch something hot, your body immidiately reacts to the situation without even thinking about it, or when someone plays with your hair, your body immediately reacts with goosebumps in pleasure. 

Movement chapter 2

Movement Chapter 2

Jaqueline Ryan

Jaqueline Ryan creates contemporary jewellery that is inspired by the movement that is found in nature. She uses colours, forms, textures and shapes found in her natural surroundings to create very intricate, organic, abstract pieces in gold and silver and that are coloured with vitreous enamel. Her work consists of multitudes of simple, free hanging elements that are arranged in an order and attached to the main piece in a way to create mesmerising and almost natural movement when the jewellery is worn. I want to develop a similar technique to what she uses to make her jewellery move for the jewellery that I make.

Jaqueline Ryan Kinetic necklace, 18ct gold and vitreous enamel

Jaqueline Ryan Kinetic Brooch, 18ct Gold and vitreous enamel

Victoria Walker

Victoria walker, a jeweller from Cornwall, creates Kinetic jewellery pieces inspired by flowers and seedpods growing in her environment. She makes beautiful flower pendants, earrings and rings out of sterling silver and gold and even though she uses traditional metals for her work, her style of work is organic as she mimics the forms and shapes of flowers in a realistic way, that specific type of flowers can be recognized. Many of her jewellery pieces are made to look, and move, like small scaled-down versions of the plants that she uses for her inspiration.

Peony Pendant by Victoria Walker

Peony Flower

Thistle Pendant by Victoria Walker

Thistle

Movement Chapter 1

Movement 1

It is very difficult to imagine the natural world without movement. Leaves and flower petals blowing in the wind, butterfly wings flapping and the rising and setting of the sun are all examples of actual movement found in nature. Other forms of movement are more subtle such as the changing of the seasons, the growth of plants and animals and their death and decay. Movement can be seen in nature in many instances, not just in its physical form but also in its more metaphorical form when observing natural processes. When looking closely at nature, you see a metaphoric connection with growth and movement as you observe the processes of life and the transition from birth to death.

Many jewellers incorporate movement into their jewellery as the element of movement can express a certain metaphor or ideal that the jewellery artist wants to get across to their audience. It can also be used to make jewellery objects more visually interesting when viewed. Looking at movement or kinetic jewellery, movement or the appearance of movement can be created in many different ways. Some artists create instrument like or mechanical jewellery that move with the aid of a power source and motor. Others create jewellery objects that are made up of parts that are connected with small hinge systems that allow a more subtle form of movement to occur when the wearer moves his or her body. A more virtual form of movement can be created on a completely static object through the use of materials that reflect light or with the use of lines that create the illusion of movement.

Daisy Pendant by Victoria Walker. An example of kinetic jewellery

Movement

Movement

For the past few weeks I have been inspired by the concept I developed for the PlatAfrica 2018 Competition and I have been working on ways to incorporate movement into my work. The Ring that I designed for the competition consisted of many simple petals that were looped through half jump rings connected to the surface of the ring, this allowed each petal to move freely with the movement of the wearer’s hand. Movement, development or growth can be metaphorically expressed through nature or something organic.  Picture leaves quivering in the wind, a sped up clip of a seed germinating or a dead animal decaying in the field. These three images express movement, development and growth.

The most important concept that I have been working on recently is movement. I have been developing a way or technique to involve movement into my jewellery pieces and this concept was developed from my plat Africa piece. During this project, I developed a technique of incorporating movement into my jewellery pieces but I felt that the technique that I was following was not perfect so I continued to develop my ideas. This led me to come up with the idea of concealing the hinge system (the previous system involved a visible jump ring that acted as a hinge) so I came up with the idea of sliding each petal through a thin slit cut out onto a surface and creating a stop from behind so that it is not visible. Below is a close up picture of my slit system. I cut out multiple petals out of silver and I cut multiple slits into a domed surface and combined these petals in a random pattern.

Having completed my first prototype, I now have a clearer understanding of my new concept and how I can improve on it. Overall I can see that this concept has beautiful movement and the potential to be taken further, however I must definitely work on my petal arrangement and the length of the slits to create a neater finished piece. The arrangement that I chose did not look visually appealing because petals were pointing in many different directions and all were different sizes, I will stick to using the same size petal in future. The next step for me is to produce more prototypes to refine the process further.